Over the years in Grand Canyon country, I’ve grown increasingly curious about the old trade routes between the Hopi and Havasupai tribes. These routes represent more than pathways across the land — they show a profound connection to the Grand Canyon and its surrounding country. They trace ridges and canyons that today are still some of the most awe-inspiring features of the South Rim.
My search began when I came across a copy of The Nation of Willows by Frank Hamilton Cushing.
Who Was Frank Hamilton Cushing?
Cushing (1857–1900) was an American anthropologist and ethnologist, best known for his pioneering work with the Zuni people. At just 19 years old, he joined an expedition to the Southwest and went on to live among the Zuni for years, becoming one of the first Westerners to immerse himself so deeply in Native culture. He studied not only their traditions but also their daily lives, rituals, and connections to the land.
Cushing’s accounts are controversial today — as with many early anthropologists, his work must be understood within the context of his time — yet The Nation of Willows remains one of the most detailed and intimate records of Havasupai culture before Western influence and U.S. government reservation policies dramatically altered their way of life. For me, his writings are like gold. They are alive with stories of the people and places I love most, and they continue to fuel my imagination.
Following Cushing’s Footsteps
Compelled by his journey, I’ve tried to retrace Cushing’s route — from Zuni, New Mexico, through Hopiland, and onward to Havasupai country, or Kuhni Canyon. Along this voyage, he writes of a cave and a spring, well known to Native hunting parties, used for generations. These waters were called the Aing-shi-ki-ana — “Waters of the Bear.”
Searching for this cave and spring has been like stepping into a real-life Indiana Jones adventure. Part of me doesn’t even want to find it — because then the chase, the wonder, the treasure-hunt of imagination might be over. The search itself has become the story.
Walking in Ancient Footsteps
For me, following these trade routes has been transformative. It makes me feel connected not only to the land but to the lives and relationships of those who came before. It has turned me into a kid again, with a spirit full of curiosity, wonder, and awe. Mapping out Cushing’s journey — alongside many other scholars and explorers who’ve attempted the same — has led me to discover some of the most remarkable archaeological and cultural remnants I’ve ever encountered since moving to this part of the world more than a decade ago.
I am grateful for the opportunity to look through this window into the past, to feel connected to a time when much of this land was still a mystery to outsiders, but well known to the people who called it home.
A Note of Responsibility
Before closing, I want to emphasize something important. This post is not intended to reveal or exploit cultural sites, nor will Ishare locations or telling images of sensitive places. Archaeological sites and cultural heritage are sacred and protected. It is our duty to preserve them, to respect the people whose ancestors walked here, and to ensure these treasures remain intact for future generations.
This is my story — my search for the Aing-shi-ki-ana — and an invitation for readers to follow along in spirit. I encourage you to do your own research, let curiosity lead the way, and above all, approach the past with reverence.
If stories like this inspire you to explore the Canyon in your own way, we invite you to continue the journey:
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Discover our Grand Canyon Day Hikes and walk some of the same ancient routes.
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Read more on the blog: The History & Geology of the Grand Canyon or Hidden Gems Along the South Rim.
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Ready for something deeper? Explore our Grand Canyon Backpacking Trips for a fully immersive experience.
Every trail is a chance to connect with the Canyon’s past, its people, and its timeless spirit.
